[meteorite-list] I'm Baaaaack... :)

From: MexicoDoug <mexicodoug_at_meteoritecentral.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Jan 2012 23:28:44 -0500 (EST)
Message-ID: <8CEA2E7A1C454A8-12A8-BAE60_at_webmail-m040.sysops.aol.com>

Thanks for the private messages; sorry, I have no time today to
individually answer the same question at the moment and since this is
of gerneral interest I'll asnwer you wityh another post.

Some people have a problem ordering "educational" stuff and someone
else asked about Nitol (Nital). I just made an example of the Ward's
nitric at reasopnable concentration for the faster etching that most
people seem to prefer nowadays. Plus, a faster etch penetrates less
into the interior of the meteorite, which is really not too big of a
deal when using this reagent grade stuff.

But since I really don't like transmission fluid at all, nor do I like
ferric chloride as an etching chemical at all, all I wanted to do was
show that you can have a one stop nitric acid bottle too, just as easy
and btw, not filled with industrial residues like the circuit board
etchant that everyone is buying at radio shack, et. al. But thers are
personal choices and I only share my own here.

To the person who insisted to use Nital instead of straight acid (you
can use straight acid, just know how to dry the stuff in an oven. The
mnethanol just evaporate more quickly, that's the benefit, and
supposedly has lower surface tension to penetrate, but my gut feeling
is don't dig deeper than you have to an you're better off. This is
dangerous if you don't respect the reagents, but really you could stick
your hands in this nital and then wash them, but please don't do
anything so daring. Don't be scared away from "Oh, why if I add the
wrong one first and a liquid projectile slams into my saftyglass-less
eyeball, there is everything available in a one-stop bottle. Either
you are inclined or you aren't...your call.

Here's what appears to be semiconductor grade (check - I think it is
also reagent grade). So here's the Nital you can use straight from the
bottle ($28) - yes, one simple bottle, one stop etching:

http://www.chemical-supermarket.com/Nital-10-Nitric-250ml-Micro-Etch-Solution-p425.html

I know a lot of people talk about an art and good etchers, etc., and
people will throw all kinds of crap on a meteorite and swear it's the
best crap that nobody else knows about. Frankly etching to me is like
working on a car. I really don't trust any other mechanic except
myself. It's a personal thing. I'm sure there are many better etchers
out than me, but just like there are better mechanics out there for
sure, theoretically, it is a much more satisfying experience to do the
work oneself if one is so inclined (and especially if one is a
chemist). And for all the good mechanics out there, my truck is now 23
years old and on its original motor, and has only gone to a mechanic
once for something that was really too complicated.

With this bottle of nital, you can etch a few small slices - they also
have a half liter $42 one. Honestly it is hard to cook a good pizza
than make a good etch. The satisfaction and appreciation for the
devine chemical structures that can be exposed is prioceless!

Hope this helps, and if you prefer to make yourr nital with other
alcohols, you probably don't need to worry about this as you'll be
mixing acid with your preffered diluent anyways.

Kindest wishes
Doug


-----Original Message-----
From: MexicoDoug <mexicodoug at aim.com>
To: Meteorite-list <Meteorite-list at meteoritecentral.com>
Sent: Mon, Jan 16, 2012 8:36 pm
Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] I'm Baaaaack... :)


Hi Gary, What a great example you are and welcome back, you're a great
fighter and I hope you're kicking butt!

Jim's is one point of view and I understand most do something like
that. But keep in mind that absolutely nothing beat a re-etch. If the
meteorite has oxidized somewhat, you will have on a microscopic level
pitting that is catalytic to more oxidation and you no longer have a
good surface - it's gone like a pristine magnetic recording on a warped
record.

I feel the better answer is not to try top cut corners by loading more
foreign chemicals. Why not just buff and polish it, rinse/dry a few
cycles in distilled water, and buy some nitric acid and etch it
yourself. Really, when it comes to work, The FRAM man has the answer:

"You can pay me (a little) now, or pay me (a lot) later".

And I know you're not afraid to roll up your sleeves!

Here:
$12 Item number 981 V 2901
you can use straight
from here:

http://wardsci.com/product.asp_Q_pn_E_IG0015411


Kindest wsihes
Doufg







-----Original Message-----
From: Jimski47 <Jimski47 at aol.com>
To: gary <gary at webbers.com>; meteorite-list
<meteorite-list at meteoritecentral.com>
Sent: Mon, Jan 16, 2012 6:36 pm
Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] I'm Baaaaack... :)


Hi Gary,

I use a product called "Bar Keepers Friend" to freshen up my etched
irons.
It comes in a powder and liquid form. Get the powder one. You can find
it
in the cleanser isle of most grocery stores or Walmart. Wet the etched
surface with warm water then mix the Bar Keepers Friend into a paste,
then
gently apply it to your etched surface. I use my finger to rub it
gently for
about 2 minutes. Then rinse with water, then soak in alcohol, then dry
in an
oven, then soak in ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid), wipe dry and
your
good to go.

Cheers,
Jim K

In a message dated 1/16/2012 5:16:20 P.M. Central Standard Time,
gary at webbers.com writes:
Though I've been away for some time in recuperation I am still alive
and
kicking and VERY grateful for this list's members for their help in my
hard times a few years ago. Getting well enough now to get back to my
collection and noticed a Gibeon slice has oxidized enough so the
etchings
have severely faded. Anyone know how to restore the etchings without
re-etching?

Also, I noticed a new trend in selling mets on eBay. Most are selling
for
Buy Now or Best Offer. What's up with the market?

Gary Foote
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Received on Mon 16 Jan 2012 11:28:44 PM PST