[meteorite-list] Re: Cutting irons?

From: Bill Mason III <bmason3_at_meteoritecentral.com>
Date: Thu Apr 22 10:23:43 2004
Message-ID: <002e01c2e08c$f063a2a0$0c02a8c0_at_ce1.client2.attbi.com>

Dear Jamie and others,
    I finally read the August 97 article by Allen Langheinrich on cutting
Iron Meteorites, It is freighting if you don't have all the equipment But it
is correct.
    I'm sure there are others out there that have techniques to share with
all of us. Let's open a constructive experience discussion. We can all learn
something.
    Bill Mason

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jamie Stephens" <J.Stephens_at_morphism.com>
To: "Meteorite-List" <meteorite-list_at_meteoritecentral.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2003 6:19 PM
Subject: [meteorite-list] Re: Cutting irons?


> List Members:
>
> Here's a summary of what I've learned. Thanks to the list members for
> their generous advice.
>
> Though I haven't tried it myself, I've heard that the best way to cut
> large irons is with a large metal-cutting band saw with oil coolant.
> Maybe something like
>
> http://www.tsmachine.com/quotes/6x10hs.html
>
> ?
>
> My experience is with a 12" lapidary slab saw. I made two changes to
> my saw. First, I added enough oil to use a 10" blade, which is
> sufficient and less wasteful. Second, I added a gravity feed system.
> The power feed system, which is not adjustable, is too fast for this
> hard stuff.
>
> I orient the meteorite in plaster. Sometimes I'll first do a test cut
> and etch to check the orientation of the crystals. In the plaster (and
> vise), I like to have the leading edge of the meteorite close to
> perpendicular to the blade. Then I start the cut with the power feed.
> Once I'm into the iron, I switch to gravity feed. I can move weights
> long a beam to adjust the weight.
>
> The 10" "meteorite CBN" blade is thin, which certainly reduces waste.
> However, the blade does tend to wander when it hits hard spots. The
> resulting blade marks require serious sanding, which creates its own
> waste. If I reduce the force to reduce blade wandering, the cuts are
> very slow. Wandering can lead to bending, and that situation creates
> various problems. So I went back to a standard 10" diamond blade.
> It's worked out pretty well. I set the gravity feed for a very slow
> cut. Maybe 1.5"/hour for a slice 7cm tall. Sloooow, but the cut is
> pretty clean.
>
> Occasionally I dress the blade with a dressing stick. This dressing
> does seem to improve the cuts a bit.
>
> Warning: I haven't made very many cuts with this blade, so it's hard
> to tell how well it's holding up. I haven't noticed serious
> degradation after about 30cm x 7cm of cuts.
>
> Of course, the previously-offered advice ("leave it to the
> professionals") still stands. The orient-cut-sand-etch-dry process
> takes lots of time (and money) to perfect.
>
> Thanks again to members who sent me suggestions.
>
> --Jamie
>
> Jamie Stephens wrote:
> >
> > List Members,
> >
> > Here's a classic question: What's the best technique for
> > cutting iron meteorites, including irons with schreibersite,
> > cohenite, and other hard stuff?
> >
> > I've looked in the list archives, and the best advice I've
> > found was "leave it to the professionals". I've taken that
> > advice (thanks, Jim), and I'll continue to. But I'd also
> > like to see what I can learn first-hand. (Yet another way
> > to spend lots of time and money on meteorites.)
> >
> > What blades are best? I have a 12" slab saw that can
> > accomodate 10" blades. Oil only. Are the "meteorite CBN"
> > blades better than good-quality, traditional diamond blades?
> > I'd like to use 10" blades to minimize kerf/waste, but blade
> > strength might be an issue.
> >
> > Power feed or gravity feed? I like the idea of constant
> > force gravity feed into hard minerals.
> >
> > I'd appreciate any suggestions.
> >
> > --Jamie Stephens
> > IMCA 2828
>
>
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Received on Sun 02 Mar 2003 02:25:44 AM PST