[meteorite-list] Simplified Meteorite Rust treatment (fwd)

From: capricorn89 <capricorn89_at_meteoritecentral.com>
Date: Thu Apr 22 09:47:13 2004
Message-ID: <000701c17259$2e7a3020$df36b2d1_at_earthlink.net>

>From Steve Witt:

<<From what I've been told and have read about irons is that you do
> not expose them to water and especially not for an extended period of
> time...

Just my own opinion for what it may be worth:

I wouldn't do it with my specimens. Neutralize all you want, you still will
have residue water deep in fissures and that means long-term rust. You can
not believe how quickly and how deep and how much water will permeate into
the iron matrix, and that means trouble, not necessary right away, but maybe
months or years later. With many irons, it isn't the chlorides causing the
rusting, its water. Just wait for the right (or wrong, depending on your
point-of-view) temperature and r.h. to come along and... Some will
disagree, and that is your choice. But I'm saying...no extensive soaking
with water...in any form....for any reason, not with my irons, or those for
my clients. I've been cutting and preserving irons for several decades.
Our Canyon Diablos, Odessas, etc. do not rust. (Maybe a trouble-maker once
in a rare instance, but not many.) [You still need to take care of them.]
I frankly don't want a lot of chemistry inside my meteorites for many
reasons.

If you want to soak, go to 99% isopropyl alcohol, if you must! Its not
expensive.

Ron Hartman

(Disgusting plug follows:)

That's why we are "repairing" many so-called neutralized irons for our
clients, to the extent that we are as busy as we can be! :=)
www.meteorite1.com
Restoration center:
www.meteorite1.net


----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Witt <stelor96_at_yahoo.com>
To: Tracy Latimer <tracyl_at_lib.state.hi.us>
Cc: <meteorite-list_at_meteoritecentral.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2001 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] Simplified Meteorite Rust treatment (fwd)


>
> Tracy & Steve,
>
> I don't profess to be knowledgeable in the area of meteoritic iron
> preservation, but one problem immediately comes to mind.
>
> From what I've been told and have read about irons is that you do
> not expose them to water and especially not for an extended period of
> time.
>
> This process has us soaking an iron meteorite in a solution which
> contains 70% Isopropyl alcohol. Isn't the other 30% of that alcohol
> solution water? If so we are soaking an iron in a 30% water bath for
> up to three weeks. How does this not have a detrimental effect on the
> specimen?
>
> Steve Witt
>
>
> --- Tracy Latimer <tracyl_at_lib.state.hi.us> wrote:
> > For those of you who have expressed interest in the lye method of
> > neutralizing the Dread Lawrencite, I offer this reprint of a
> > previous post. Hope it's useful.
> >
> > Tracy Latimerawrencite
> >
> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > Date: 1 May 2001 09:06:19 -0700
> > From: meteorites_at_space.com
> > To: meteorite-list_at_meteoritecentral.com
> > Subject: [meteorite-list] Simplified Meteorite Rust treatment
> >
> > Over the years I have been experimenting with various methods of
> > neutralizing FeCl3 and NiCl3 (Cl2 also) in meteorites.
> >
> > Now I have found that it can be done with 70% isopropyl rubbing
> > alcohol right off the drug store shelf, and Red Devil lye (sodium
> > hydroxide).
> >
> > Use as much isopropyl to cover the specimen in a glass or
> > tupperware container, then add a teaspoon of Red Devil lye, or as
> > much as the solution can absorb. If after a few days the first
> > teaspoon dissolves, then add a bit more. This can be done with or
> > without the specimen in the solution.
> >
> > Let the specimen soak in the container (covered) for a week or
> > more. Don't be alarmed to see rusticles (sort of like those on the
> > Titanic) forming. This is a clear indication that the chemical
> > reaction is taking place, and the Cl is being absorbed by the Na in
> > the solution, and the OH is attaching in its stead to the Fe
> > forming a non corrosive FeOH and or NiOH. (These are the
> > "rusticles" that you see)
> >
> > If during this time you see that the solution is turning rust
> > brown, pour it and add fresh 70% isoproypl and another dash of Red
> > Devil lye. After a week or two. Remove the specimen from the
> > solution and allow it to dry. After a few days lightly sand it to
> > remove the rusticles, then set it uncoated for a week or more to
> > see if it still bleeds chlorides of iron or nickel. If it does,
> > repeat the process for another week or more.
> > I have found this process to work well with Mt. Dieu, Brahin,
> > Brenham, Canyon Diablo, Campo del Cielo, and other rusters. With
> > pallasites, the crystals will sometimes rise a bit in their
> > sockets, but once dry the FeOH that holds them will turn into
> > tougher iron oxides. Sanding it down will make the surface level
> > again. And I have found that after the light sanding, a day or so
> > additional soak of pallasites is a good idea. Then dry and polish
> > afterwards. For the really stubborn specimens, I will be working
> > on a simple electrolosis addition to the above mentionned solution.
> > This involves using a battery and a good resistor to create a
> > small current that will drive the Cl ions out of and away from the
> > meteorite. Will post as soon as I test the idea and get some solid
> > results. Steve Schoner, American Meteorite Survey;
> > http://www.geocities.com/american_meteorite_survey
> >
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Received on Wed 21 Nov 2001 01:53:08 AM PST